2 dec 06
The drive out of La Paz is surprisingly interesting. Getting out involves our bus clambering up out of the crater, and over bridges that look like they were made for pedestrians. Once out of the city we get our first real view of the alti plano. As expected... its very flat...
There is actualy a bit of greenery, and lots of cows, a bit like home really.
The journey takes four hours, with a break to cross a 500m channel on a very small ferry. We arrive in Copacobana around 5pm.
I am very impressed. It looks more like the ocean than the lake, and reminds me of a mix between the Greek islands and parts of the NZ coastline (Titahi Bay in particular). At 3,900m it is surprisingly warm. We spend a while searcing for a hostel for a view over the lake. Its my idea, and Sara doesnt get it. I just want a room which feels nice. The last few days in La Paz have been in a well fitted but ultimately depressing pokey room.
Trout is available at literally ALL the restaurants. I am unsure if anything else can even be ordered. It tastes good. And its so cheap (15 bols/ $3NZ) I have two. All manner of water crafts for hire sit on the lake edge. It feels incredibly touristy, but catered for Bolivians more than foreigners somehow. I like it.
The next day we boat out to Isla de Sol.. The island of the Sun. We dont bother getting out of bed early for the regular ferry, but manage to blag a ride on a private boat with a group of youbng a wealthy looking Bolivians for the same price. It is sunny, and I am tempted to jump in just to say I have swam in the worlds highest lake. It would be a nice compliment to the worlds lowest sea I eneterd several time in Jordan a few years ago, but I cant quite muster the
enthusism. Never mind.
From the jetty we have to climb the "Inca stirs." They are seriously steep at at this altitude are taken slowly. Somewhat to both of our surprises we buy our first souvineers on the entire trip, In fact we get a bit carried away, buying no less than 5 tapestries depicting local life here. Sara even gets a piece of rope platted into her hair... seriously touristy.. what has suddenly happened to us??
We find the nicest room on our entire trip. It has a wonderful view over the lake and the mountains in the distance. It has windows on three walls and a skylight.. and it costs us 40 bols (NZ$8!!).
Once rested we begin exploring, and walk for bloody miles up and down the length of the island. The locals are friendly enough and despite the sudden high wind and dark cloud overhead we stay warm enough. The sunset is hidden by clouds, but is fierry red. Again I think back to time in the Greek Islands a few years ago.
The next day is a bit of a fiasco. Intending to walk to the rest of the island then catch the 4pm ferry we go to brekkie with best intentions. Despite the very high wind, rain and generaly stormy weather. Meeting a fellow Kiwi travelling solo we yak away for ages, then decide to chicken out and ferry back asap. Hopefully we can make the Peru border,
which is only 20 mins drive away today. She has been told there is a midday ferry. We have not. Unfortunately our advice turns out to be correct and wesit by the dock for 5 hours. Bored.
Watcing the boats made entirely of reed is kind of cool, but nowadays they are strictly for wealthy tourists. Ie not us..

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